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Acne Editorials Red Magazine

Spotless

the skin we'd love to have

Over the years I had tried many different products, from Neutrogena to Eve Lom, with no success. Callen confirmed what I had suspected: that the ranges available over the counter might help control oily skin or deal with the odd spot, but could do little to rid skin of constant, hormonally dependant acne of the kind I had been diagnosed with. So, I was highly sceptical when a fellow journalist recommended The Sher System, the invention of an alternative beauty practitioner called Helen Sher. When I rang Sher to ask her about her system, she said simply: "You have spots? You must come and see me. I can help you." She is a charming, glamorous, yet motherly Canadian in her sixties. I liked her immediately, and after a month of using her products I was a convert to them, too. My skin was now spot-free, soft and, I liked to think, younger-looking. Sher began her career in Montreal, working in promotions and management for Revlon and later Estee Lauder, before becoming a cosmetics and perfumery buyer. In 1979, she and her husband moved to London, and in 1991, she launched The Sher System, a skincare approach that claims to provide all ages of both sexes with healthy, well-regulated skin.

* by Laura Tennant, Red magazine (Sept 2000)

water therapy is the heart of the Sher System

At the heart of the system is water therapy, a multiple-rinse cleansing routine that draws out impurities, oils and bacteria, clearing the pores from within. The routine is time consuming, but curiously satisfying.

First, a pre-wash cleansing formula removes make-up, and softens the skin. Next, toner removes excess oil and helps cleansing. Water softening chromium hydroxide crystals are added to a basin of warm water, which is temperature controlled at 98 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Then the face is washed with face wash and splashed no less than 20 times.

Finally, the multi-action serum is applied -a wonderful-smelling oil which has vitamin A to smooth dry skin, vitamin E to heal, amino acids to increase elasticity, and lavender oil, an antiseptic essential oil. A product called On The Spot, with camphor, zaps existing spots.

Sher, who looks more 40 than 60, says there is no one miracle ingredient, and admits that many of the active components in her range have been used in skincare for years. The difference, she says, is in her assessment of what a person's skin needs, the combination of products she prescribes, and the crucial factor of water. She read about water therapy as a teenager, and has been splashing her face ever since. She has no medical training, but her products, formulated with the approval of a dermatologist, draw on years of experience in the beauty industry. She calls herself a "skin psychologist" because she says many of her clients are so depressed by their skin when they come to her that someone caring and paying attention to them is a help in itself.

The Sher philosophy, that "temperature controlled water is the most important catalyst in keeping your skin youthful and firm", is so simple it's hard to believe that it works; but I can testify that it does. It also makes her beauty products different from any that I've tried before.

I am now back to where I started, except that I know more about the subject. To really put Helen Sher's system to the test, I ought to come off Dianette and let my rebellious hormones do their worst. Her own confidence in her products, and the numerous grateful testimonies she gave me from people with severe acne, leave me feeling quietly hopeful about the future. Acne can't be cured, but with the help of a combination of modern medicine and independent practitioners such as Sher, and some research into the approach that suits you best, at least it can be controlled.

* by Laura Tennant, Red magazine (Sept 2000)

Spot Remover

Pimples are not only a teenage afflication - adult acne can strike at any time

Jenefer Nicholas, a high-powered PA in her thirties, whose skin broke out after a bereavement, was prescribed a three-month course of Roaccutane after she had no success with other treatments.

"I was at my lowest ebb ever, "she says. "They were red, watery blisters, and I didn't believe my GP when he told me it was seborrhoeic dermatitis and prescribed hydrocortisone creams and antibiotics. On Roaccutane, my eyes were so dry I could hardly blink, my lips were bleeding even though I smothered them with Vaseline, I felt lethargic, and I had muscular aches and pains and violent mood swings."

And she wasn't allowed any alcohol (as Roaccutane can cause liver damage), which didn't help. Her skin improved -it was 85 per cent better-but the spots came back within a week of the course ending.

The acne "switch" can be activated at any time -what's tricky is finding the key to turn it off.

When Roaccutane failed Jenefer Nicholas, she consulted Helen Sher, a Canadian skin specialist based in London who blames the Pill, HRT, hormones in the water and sensitive Celtic and Anglo-Saxon skin for the rise in skin complaints among mature women. Most of her clients are aged between 25 and 45.

Sher diagnosed Nicholas with acne rosacea. "I was so down and desperate, I thought I had nothing to lose,"says Nicholas, "But within a week of using Helen's products -a make-up remover, facial wash, serum and spot cream for rosacea -my skin started to improve."

The key to Sher's system is water - rinsing 20 times after using her face wash or cleanser, and drinking a glass before and after every meal. The system doesn't come cheap, but her clients' testimonials are impressive.

Journalist Hester Lacey, another Sher disciple -"Just talking to her for an hour about my skin was a pleasant experience" -who'd been a "smug teenager because everyone else had horrible spots while I always had really good skin, as do my mother and sister", suddenly developed an itchy patch on her elbow when she was 30. "II thought I'd been bitten. Then it spread to my legs, which was horrible, but at least no one could see it. When it reached my neck, it looked like a ridiculous love bite, but really gruesome, scabby and oozing; someone asked me if I'd burnt myself."

When her face succumbed, it was the final straw. Adult-onset eczema, said her GP, and produced a cortisone cream. Lacey changed washing powders, gave up perfumes and rubbed E45 barrier cream all over before showering. Homeopathy didn't help either. "By the time I'd got to Helen, I'd made all the changes I could think of. Hers wasn't an overnight cure, but it only took a couple of weeks for things to improve."

* by Markie Robson Scott, from Vogue (May 2000)

Vogue Magazine